There are perhaps no wines in our book quite as exacting, quite as specific, quite as perplexing as the wines of Stefan Vetter.
They are simultaneously cornerstones of a new German aesthetic (it is absolutely no exaggeration to say that Vetter is one of the most influential winemakers of his generation – the list of young growers who cite Vetter as a primary influence is astounding); yet the wines also remain esoteric, under-the-radar.
V
etter’s wines have been included in no fewer than two separate “most memorable wines of the year” lists by Eric Asimov of the Times. Punch has called Stefan the “savior of Sylvaner.” Despite the critical praise, the wines remain niche.
Perhaps this is not difficult to explain: Vetter’s wines are not easy. They are not for everyone. Especially in this world of easy and instant gratification, Vetter’s wines are unforgiving and unapologetic.
Yet, for those who miss ruthless finesse, who miss wines of pure structure, Vetter’s Sylvaners represent (even a decade later) the true avant garde. The wines are saline, piercing, mineral-scalpels made of limestone and sandstone. How so much concentration, so much energy can pulse through wines of 10% alcohol is a serious conundrum, if not a miracle.
The 2021ers have needed some time – a more severe vintage has not been seen in well over a decade if not longer – yet they are coming into focus as perhaps one of Vetter’s greatest vintages.
To some extent, this is a perfect storm of winemaker and vintage.
We are thrilled to finally be able to offer an assortment of Vetter’s top Silvaners, from the soil wines (the Sandstein and Muschelkalk) to the single-vineyard “GK” and the high-altitude parcel “Himmelslücke.” (The rare “Rosenrain,” made from a tiny parcel of ungrafted vines, will be allocated to those who support Vetter’s wines across the board.).
There is also a surprise: a 2022 “Rotling,” a sprightly light red from Stefan, a category of wine long since shunned and ignored. Obviously Stefan is unafraid to jump back in. More details below.
Please keep in mind most of these wines are *very* limited.
We’ve provided tasting notes on all the wines below. If you are “in the biz,” as they say, please reach out to your nearest vom Boden agent – or email orders@vomboden.com to find this person!
If you are just a Vetter fanatic, or looking to become a Vetter fanatic, you can also email orders@vomboden.com and we will do our best to put you in touch with someone who can sell you the wines! Please keep in mind these wines will arrive stateside in August, 2024.
Vetter “Rotling” 2022 ~$25
And here’s the surprise alluded to above!
Once a fairly common practice (and wine) for the domestic German market, the category of “Rotling” (technically a wine made from both red and white grapes that must be pressed and fermented together) suffered from copious amounts of über-cheap, often off-dry versions in the 1980s and 1990s, thus destroying the reputation of the practice. So it’s been curious to see the style coming back into practice, among those winemakers who see a value in delicate reds. This is a roughly 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Müller-Thurgau, crushed and pressed together with élevage in large casks. If there is a more mineral, quinine, electrolyte-powdered wine we have not yet tasted it. Consider this the official wine of the NYC marathon. It’s a beguiling colour – between watermelon and orange Hi-C, with crystal clear berry flavors, a crunchy-salty minerality and just amazing verve. Pure refreshment. This will be bottled in a clear bottle with a crown cap.
Vetter Sylvaner “Sandstein” 2021 ~$45
It goes without saying that Vetter has a style – and the 2021’s could not be more Vetter. Tasting note after tasting note from early this spring in Germany, tasting with Stefan, includes the word “ruthless” – this is the vintage woven into Vetter’s style. The Sandstein is perhaps the most drinky of the bunch – call it a Kabinett Trocken Silvaner. Sourced from 50+ year-old vines on sandstone terraces, this can be thought of as the Premier Cru – previously it was bottled as the “Steinterrasen Sandstein.” This wine has the most granular of textures, yellowed fruits, serious cut and grapefruit spray.
Vetter Sylvaner “Muschelkalk” 2021 ~$45
It goes without saying that Vetter has a style – and the 2021’s could not be more Vetter. Tasting note after tasting note from early this spring in Germany, tasting with Stefan, includes the word “ruthless” – this is the vintage woven into Vetter’s style. The Muschelkalk is presents as both more seductive and mysterious, yet also as more brooding than the above Sandstein. Truly a wine for the ages; you have to wonder how similar this will be in its evolution to a great Chablis from the 1980s. Sourced from 50+ year-old vines on chalky limestone, this can be thought of as the Premier Cru – previously it was bottled as the “Muschelkalk Steinterrassen.” The wine shows hints of fruit on the more blue and green side of things, a dash of ripe red delicious apple juice, yet so precious, so linear.
Vetter Sylvaner “Himmelslücke” 2021 ~$58
“Himmelslücke” or, “a gap in the sky”, is a wine sourced from the highest terraces of Vetter’s primary holdings within the GK. This parcel, surrounded by forest, with the most barren limestone rock and highest elevation, produces one of the most extreme wines in Vetter’s stable. The nose is endless – prettiest, also most suave, utterly pure without any excess, completely devoid of ambient noise – it makes the wine feel as serene as rain water. A trifecta of stone, acid and alcohol, there is simply no wine like this – a wine of utter class and elegance without anything nonessential.
Vetter Sylvaner “GK” 2021 ~$70
The vineyard Stefan farms, the Kalbenstein, is in the village of Gambach. Thus, in the German parlance we’d say: “Gambacher Kalbenstein.” As Vetter bottles everything as Landwein, he is not allowed to use the village nor vineyard name. So the top, TOP selection from all the terraces of the site are bottled as the “GK.” If the Sandstein and Muschelkalk impress by pure intensity and rawness, the GK is a wine of feather-like weight and perfect harmony without any seam or ending, as if plucked directly from the vine. It is breathtaking, jaw dropping, spellbinding. Pure shells: a more mineral wine would be hard to find. This is profound juice.
