The Vineyard Project was began in the fall of 2019 as a way of connecting soulful, yet overlooked vineyards, with soulful growers. But the larger goal, in a way, has little to do with either the vineyard or the grower: it’s about the community, the village, the people behind the wine.
If it takes a village to raise a vineyard, it’s also true that throughout countless villages in Europe, the vineyards have fostered the communities. If one goes fallow, the other may follow.
Our first collaboration (Vineyard Project 001) was with the Mosel grower Ulli Stein and an older grower from the same village, Ewald. Ewald had planted around a hectare of ungrafted Elbing vines with his uncle 69 years ago.
It is a rare parcel of this ancient variety; the only ungrafted Elbling vineyard I am aware of. In the Riesling-dominated middle Mosel, the vineyard was ignored and Ewald was selling the juice bulk, for pennies on the dollar. The vineyard was supported, was tended and loved, because Ewald kept it going – but this was and is not sustainable.
By connecting Stein to this vineyard, by guaranteeing him a market for the wine, we have helped to give this vineyard a sustainable future. Ewald’s Elbling will be preserved for future generations.
Our second collaboration (Vineyard Project 002) takes us even further into the obscure: to a tiny village about 30 minutes north of Stuttgart.
The village of Rosswag is an incredible place, a viticultural treasure. The tiny village (population just over 1,200 inhabitants) is surrounded by an ancient amphitheater, a fortress of vines not unlike the “Terrassen-Mosel” built centuries ago.
These vineyards, as beautiful as they are, are profoundly expensive to farm. The majority of work must be done by hand. In the last few decades there have been enormous changes to the way wine is made and sold; financial pressures have seen many younger people heading to the big cities. The local cooperative, which farms 99% of these amazing vineyards, has handled the challenges of the new wine market better than most.
Hannes Hoffmann and Olympia Samara are the rare exceptions. Hannes was born in Rosswag; he and his wife have planted their flag here. They are, literally for these vineyards, the other 1%. They are the wine estate Roterfaden – the only other estate farming these vineyards.
We have brought the two together. Hannes and Olympia, strong advocates of organic and biodynamic farming, can begin to work with the cooperative to consider more sustainable farming practices, methods that could scale. They will help in the cellars to ferment and blend a special bottling for us. In return, we will pay a substantially higher price for the wine and guarantee a purchase – and we will hope for an eager market.
By telling the story, by shining a light toward a place long overlooked, and by paying a sustainable price, we hope to work with the community to help save and preserve for the future these amazing vineyards, this amazing place.
For more information on any of our Vineyard Projects, please email orders@vomboden.com.