Moritz KissingerWeissburgunder (750ml)

We’ll do our best to be both complete and concise, to try and explain the hype, the magic and the beauty of Moritz Kissinger’s wines. I suppose what makes these wines so revelatory is the style, which, when you approach them through the lens of many Rheinhessen wines (most of which are grandiose yet crystalline dry Rieslings), they feel shocking, discombobulating, disorienting. Kissinger’s wines are more relaxed, wider. They use their textural qualities in an unapologetic way; they have an approachable honesty that isn’t rustic exactly, but it is maybe jarring – the degree of clarity, the forthrightness. And then, with the second sip you approach the wines more as Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc or as Sauvignon Blanc, grown on limestone, without thinking about the cultural baggage of the Rheinhessen, or of Germany at large. And then the wines make perfect fucking sense. These wines are absolutely what they should be.