LeipoldSilvaner Muschelkalk Kabinett Trocken 2023 (750ml)

This is an estate we were introduced to by Klaus Peter Keller. Peter Leipold, the young son who is taking over the winery, simply has “the touch,” I don’t know how else to say it. Nearly every wine I’ve tasted from the estate is incredibly linear, light, incisive and penetrating yet also electric. Two words keep coming to mind: saturation and evaporation. The wines have a super-fine, glycerine density to them, yet then they are gone, weightless… only the energy reverberating. These wines are Silvaner as mineral scalpel; drink carefully.

Sourced from a limestone parcel just some meters down from the “Grand Cru” Gässberg, from 20 year old vines on a south/southwest facing slope. Leipold’s “Muschelkalk” bottling (this is bottled in a Bocksbeutel) is a very serious wine. Very taut and linear on the palate, with white citrus and saline notes, here we get into that Silvaner-as-more-Chablisienne-than-Chablis thing. Yet there is a slimness to the wines, a focus that makes these feel even more incisive than most Chablis. Stunning wine.