LeipoldSilvaner Gassberg Trocken 2021 (750ml)

This is an estate we were introduced to by Klaus Peter Keller. Peter Leipold, the young son who is taking over the winery, simply has “the touch,” I don’t know how else to say it. Nearly every wine I’ve tasted from the estate is incredibly linear, light, incisive and penetrating yet also electric. Two words keep coming to mind: saturation and evaporation. The wines have a super-fine, glycerine density to them, yet then they are gone, weightless… only the energy reverberating. These wines are Silvaner as mineral scalpel; drink carefully.

The Gässberg Silvaner is Peter’s most mineral, most linear Silvaner; the soils here are largely limestone and you can feel that structure and grip. The tension, the contrast, is what makes this wine so beguiling – Baroque minimalism. This wine is just superb and will cellar nicely, benefitting from 5+ years.