Max KilburgRiesling Ohligsberg Kabinett 2023 (750ml)


Country:
Germany

Unit Type:
750ml

Estimated Price:
$40


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The Ohligsberg is considered, by nearly every German winemaker we speak with, among the top sites of the Mosel. It has a great exposure, so warmth and ripeness is not a problem, yet parts of it are also tucked into a side-valley of sorts and the wines benefit from the cool breezes that slide down the valley. As such, the wine is both powerful and deep – not lavish exactly but it often presents a darker, deeper fruit tone, more than one taster has noted a familial similarity with Domprobst for those who know Willi Schaefer’s taut Baroque scultpures from this vineyard. At the same time the wine lacks nothing for firmness, electricity, structure. My notes somewhere say 11.5 acidity which maybe isn’t exactly correct but wow. Electricity?

Country

Germany

Unit Type

750ml

Alcohol

9%

Wine Class

Still White

Pack Size

12

Address

Mosel

Estimated Price

$40

Mosel Fine Wines

The 2023er Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was made from fruit picked at 77° Oechsle on up to 40-year-old vines in the upper part of the Brauert section of the vineyard and was fermented spontaneously in stainless-steel tank down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (53 g/l). This beautifully hay-colored wine offers a superb nose of fine spices, pear, orange peel, white flowers, a hint of whipped cream, and smoke. It is beautifully precise and finely chiseled on the palate, and yet delivers an intense and beautifully persistent feel of fruits and minerals in the long finish. The aftertaste is airy, intense, and just superb. What a beautiful expression of lively yet complex Kabinett in the making!

No 74 Dec 2024