Max KilburgRiesling Goldtröpfchen Grand Cru Dry (750ml)

The Goldtröpfchen is the warmer vineyard, yet somehow the wine presents more linear (these basic notes as per Ohligsberg and Goldtröpfchen hold true with the expressions of Julian Haart as well, which is fascinating) – the tones here are a bit brighter and stone-fruited; it is also characteristically spiced and herbal, simply piercing and lithe. Welcome to Bonkers-town.

I genuinely can’t believe how good how good these wines are, the fruit is so tense and coiled up yet super pristine. The magic of 2021 – when done well – is the clarity of the fruit matched to such a tactile density, depth and length. To me the Goldtröpchen is the more direct and cut of the two wines. At this youthful stage it is showing a bit more green fruit, granny smith apple phenolics paired with stone fruit and sea salt.