VollenweiderRiesling Goldgrube Kabinett “Wurzelecht” 2023 (750ml)

The 2023er Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett, as it is referred to on the consumer label (and with a drawing of vine roots in gold, the reference to -Wurzelecht- is left for the back label), was made from a selection of very old, un-grafted vines in the Jon sector of the vineyard and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It proves delicately smoky and comparatively reserved at first, and only gradually delivers its full complexity with refined notes of almond, yellow flowers, lavender, cassis, thyme, dill, and candied lime. The wine proves airy and superbly well balanced, and has layers upon layers of flintstone, vineyard peach, and minty herbs. It comes over as relatively light, yet its complexity is just superb. The finish is very pure and airy, yet the length is stunning. What a splendid Kabinett!