Louis MathieuPinot Noir Bourgogne Rouge “Les Nargilets” 2017 (750ml)

The only reason this ultra-micro production Burgundy is here in the U.S. – and not just being drank by Louis and his friends – is because of Klaus Peter Keller. Louis interned at Keller for six months and, as a humble gesture one afternoon, Louis put one of his bottles on the table for the entire vineyard crew, including KP, to drink. KP, who has forgotten more about Burgundy than most people will ever know, was impressed. Here was authentic, soulful Burgundy from a young kid on the periphery of Burgundy (the .19-hectare vineyard is in Aluze, on the outskirts of Mercurey), yet the wine had depth, focus, lift. It was a pleasure to drink; it expressed real passion. That’s the origin story anyway.

Aluze is a wilder, colder place than the Côte de Beaune or the Côte de Nuits – so cold in fact that Louis can harvest in late September (as he did in both 2016 and 2017) and produce a Pinot Noir with depth and complexity that is under 12% alcohol.

This is a fantastic Bourgogne Rouge; while it clocks in at only 11.5% alcohol, it is a wine of lovely depth and concentration, warm red fruit, earth and mineral, yet also very woodland and fresh feeling. Honestly it’s crazy how much complexity this wine has, how dense and deep it feels, yet how lean the framework is. The fruit is layered and clear and fine and very saturating – you feel the flavor. Super finely knit and the freshness makes you come back for more. Superb.