RoterfadenLemberger (750ml)

German Blaufränkisch? Hell yes. Grapes don’t recognize our silly political borders; if the vine is healthy, then the vine is at home. 

Olympia and Hannes are Roterfaden. They started in 2014 with half a hectare of Lemberger from a parcel planted by Hannes’ grandfather. They have now grown to about four hectares while working organic and certified Bio-dynamic, making their own teas and extracts. Everything is done by hand; the vineyards are beautiful, stunning even, an ancient, terraced amphitheater surrounding a tiny village. I don’t know how else to describe it.

These are Lembergers of astounding clarity, energy and finesse. We’re farther north, in a cooler place, so this is a leaner version of most Austrian Baufränkisches. Yet here, in the north, they are no less deep, just more gaunt, more taut. Their sinewy, lean, herbal, smoky mineral grip recalls something of the rustic, deep layers of the Northern Rhône. The energy is palpable.

Think of it as a blend of Pinot Noir (the lightness), Syrah (the smokiness) and Nebbiolo (the mysteriousness?).