Moritz KissingerBlanc de Blancs Brut Nature (750ml)

The sparkling Blanc de Blancs is perhaps the star of Kissinger’s collection. If cool-climate limestone and Chardonnay are an obvious pairing, there is something fascinating, singular, about the saline-marine cut and depth to this wine. It is a show-stopper, absolutely superb and something of a revelation. The bottle is very clearly a harbinger of things to come in the Rheinhessen, of things to come in Germany.

The great sin of German sparkling wine has been the lack of focus, perhaps the lack of passion. Yes, the Germans make a ton of sparkling and they drink a ton of sparkling – but that is different from being passionate about the category.

A few young growers are now clearly in love, and you can taste it in their wines.