Lauer’s 2022 single-vineyard Grand Cru Rieslings – the GGs – have finally arrived in the U.S.
Because of their intense structure, the density and cut of the wines… the razor-sharp acids – we have decided to release the wines as late as we can. We’re a few weeks before Keller releases his G-Max and Abtserde, but not that much… 🙂
Lauer is on a tear and these are profound wines. Note: They are not easy wines. At the moment, in this extreme youth, they seriously benefit from 24 to 48+ hours open; the dense minerality unwinds and the citrus and ocean-breeze aromatics begin to soar. It’s a thrilling experience.
At Lauer 2022 is a very good vintage for dry Rieslings – the warmth of the vintage tempering the ferocity of the acidity, the dry weather in June and July slowing down sugar-ripeness, so the wines have moderate alcohols (they are all labeled 12.5% but in fact have just over 12%). In fact, in many ways the 2022ers remind me a bit of the 2020ers – one of my favorite Mosel-Saar-Ruwer dry-Riesling vintages in a while. The wines just have everything, aromatics, depth, energy.
It’s a ridiculous analogy (but what else would you expect from me?), but in the world of GGs, I think of the grand GGs of the Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Pfalz a bit like Chardonnay from the Cote d’Or. They are statuesque, flashy.
The emerging GGs of the Saar (and to some extent the Mosel) are more like Chablis, albeit Chablis back from the 1980s and 1990s where there was a bit more force and cut and, yes, acid.
Lauer’s trilogy of GGs is serious, stern and epic.
Mosel Fine Wines, truly one of the most scholarly and balanced publications out there, have the GGs a mix of 94 and 93 points (not sure who got what and I don’t really care) – for this publication, those are serious scores.
The reviews are below.
2022er Peter Lauer Kupp Riesling GG
“The 2022er Kupp as it is referred to on the central part of the label (GG is written top left), comes from the central part of the original Kupp hill. It offers a superbly bright and deeply complex nose of minty and fine spices, bergamot, lime zest, smoke, aniseed, spearmint, and lemon. The wine proves superbly balanced on the palate, where plenty of spicy and herbal notes interplay with delicate flowery elements. The finish proves slightly broader yet there is plenty of tension and energy and the length is stunning. This is a great dry Riesling in the making.” MFW
2022er Peter Lauer Feils Riesling GG
“The 2022er Feils as it is referred to on the central part of the label (GG is written top left), comes from this south-south-east facing Lieu-dit overseeing the Saar (legally part of the Ayler Kupp vineyard). It offers a great and delicately smoky nose with refreshing scents of greengage, fine spices, minty herbs, almond, dried white flowers, bergamot, and mustard seed. The wine proves superbly balanced on the palate, where an initial touch of creamy and juicy elements is superbly wrapped into reductive and candied citrusy fruits. The finish has great length and superb precision. This is a great dry Riesling in the making.” MFW
2022er Peter Lauer Schonfels Riesling GG
“The 2022er Schonfels as it is referred to on the central part of the label (GG is written top left), comes from this steep south-east facing hill overseeing the Saar (legally part of the Ayler Kupp vineyard). It offers a beautifully complex, smoky, and herbal nose of minty herbs, cassis, licorice, greengage, grapefruit zest, anise, and wild herbs. The wine proves structured and still compact, with a touch more smoothness on the mid-palate. The finish already shows more energy and precision. There is still a hint of tartness in need of integration before true greatness.” MFW