Today we honor a bad-ass winemaker, doing all the right things (organic and bioD viticulture, hand-harvesting, natural ferments) in virtual obscurity: Camille Migot.
We also honor two of the raciest Gamays we’ve ever tasted: a sparkling Gamay rosé that speaks of its cool-climate home, with fragrant crushed red berries charged by a cool mineral-driven acidity. Electric sparkling rosé, méthode Champenoise, under $28 anyone? Only in the forgotten France.
And the still “cuvée Gamay” (arrives end of April) tastes like a juicy Morgon had a threesome with an Aligoté and a pile of crushed rocks. Details on Migot’s two Gamays below.
Support the small growers in parts unknown not only because they are helping to make our wine world more diverse and fascinating, but also because, well, Camille Migot’s wines are worth every penny.
Both wines cost a fraction of what they should based on absolutely nothing other than no one’s ever heard of the 100-hectare Côtes de Toul appellation in the Lorraine. (OK, maybe you’ve heard of it because you’re special and geek-out about this shit like we do, but you get my drift.)
To get here, just head south following the Mosel River, crossing the border of Germany and France; we’re about equal distance between Trier and Strasbourg. The landscape here is much different than the jagged rock cliffs of the Mosel; this is a dark-green, luscious fertile landscape of gentle rolling hills that has been the home of agriculture and viticulture for centuries.
Camille is farming about 4 hectares all on his damn own, after having founded his own winery, garagiste-style, out of a tiny space in Lucey in 2013. Most of the time, Camille has a bit of a scowl on his face. Sure, now and again there’s the flash of a smile, but most of the time there’s at least a little bit of visible tenseness.
I think it’s because he has to be twice as good to get even half the credit of most French vignerons.
While the family has been farmers, grape growers, for generations, Camille is seeking more. And you can taste it.
Camille is certified organic with his father doing many biodynamic preparations.
He’s planted many old clones that focus on small berries and thick skins, resulting in low yields… yet high quality. In the cellar, everything is natural ferment and Camille does not chapitalize, so the wines are racy and low in alcohol.
Like I said, the French Moselle.
The sparkling Gamay is in stock; the non-sparkling “cuvée Gamay” arrives end of April. Please let us know if you have interest, as quantities are very limited.
Reply to this email – orders@vomboden.com to order
2017 Migot Gamay Rosé Méthode Traditionnelle ~$26-28 retail
IN STOCK NOW!
The sparkling Gamay is a delicate rosé, with only the faintest salmon tinge. This tranche is mostly vintage 2017, with a small amount of reserve wine added for complexity. The wine is perfumed and airy, dark fresh crushed berries with a taut, firm mineral driven acidity. While the overall structure is quite fine, the wine is saturating and intense.
2017 Migot “cuvée Gamay” ~$25-27 retail
>ARRIVES END OF APRIL<
Camille’s “cuvée Gamay” is a high-toned, lithe and nervous creature with a tangy, lip-smacking acidity. If it weren’t for the perfume, the red-fruit and crushed-berry palate, with your eyes closed you would at least think about white wine – it has that kind of bouncy energy.