Thus begins the genius-scholar David Schildknecht’s review of Becker’s 2014 old-vine Kabinett Trocken, a profound porcelain sculpture of a dry Riesling and one of the most ruthlessly mineral and oceanic wines I have ever had.
It is also the first and only old vine dry Kabinett that Becker has ever made; keep in mind we’re talking 47 vintages under his belt.
This is an offering, all about the dry Kabinett, known in German parlance as “Kabinett Trocken.” For me, it is one of the most unique calling cards of Germany, of Riesling. There are few wines that are more oceanic, Muscadet and Chablis included. There are few wines that have more complexity, more detail, more layers, yet somehow carry all this on an ultralight frame.
Kabinett Trockens are the carbon fiber, ultra-light, high-performance wines from a bygone era. I understand that last sentence doesn’t quite work, but I’m keeping it.
This is perhaps a non sequitur, but there was a Clos Roche Blanche dinner last night (April 3rd, 2019) at the New York institution Racines. For me, and many others, the wines of Clos Roche Blanche represent something so special for the very reason they are not trying to be so special. They represent honest winemaking, rigor in the cellar, and small-scaled wines that over-deliver. Wines that can be opened Monday through Friday, that can be shared generously and enjoyed, celebrated… actually drank.
For me, Kabinett Trockens (the good ones), offer something like this sort of joy.
There are two Kabi Trockens on offer today, the normalé and the old vine. Both are coming DIREKT from Becker’s cold cellar (arriving later May 2019) and both are wildly limited. 2014 is an overlooked vintage, lost in the confusion of 2013 and the anticipation for 2015.
It’s probably worth noting that in this vintage, Hans-Josef only made Kabinetts. In other words, these are his top wines and they benefit from an outrageous density, with dry extracts topping the charts. This is a fiercely individual and a classic move for Hans-Josef. Or, put another way: Hans-Josef is a bad ass and does his own thing, always.
Severe in youth, these two wines are, only now, after about five years in the cellar, coming into stunning focus. Five years and they are just beginning to tell their ancient story.
For more information or to order please email orders@vomboden.com. If you are in the business, let us know what state you’re in and we can try and set you up; if you are a passionate drinker, let us know and we can find a retailer near you.
A personal favorite, we have brought in a little bit of this wine a few years ago. The wine is CUT. It’s structured. If it was severe in its youth, time has beautifully done whatever it is that time does, polishing the sharp angles of the wine, bringing forth a total and complete resolution of fruit, mineral, acid, structure. This is just a goddamn beautiful wine, compact and bright, saline and cut.
I love Schildknecht’s writings, so I’m just going to quote from him. He gave this wine 93 points which for any other critic, would be like a 345. Not that anyone cares about points, I know, but just FYI. “Scents of kelp, sea breeze and oyster shell hold your attention. The combination of nutty richness, meaty savor, herbal depth, alkalinity, chalkiness and saliva-drawing salinity put me mouth-wateringly in mind of raw oyster; and all of this comes in the context of a silken texture and infectiously juicy fresh-lemony brightness, leading to a finish that just won’t quit.” David Schildknecht, Vinous, July 2018