Hans-Josef Becker (pictured above) works at his own damn pace.
Becker’s wines come to the market nearly always a year (or more) behind everyone else’s wines. If this can sometimes be a sales liability, in the case of the 2016ers, I think it has to be seen as an advantage. While the first releases of the 2016ers were picked at casually, like dinner courses served way too late, the last year plus has shown how delicious, how energetic and crystalline the wines are.
The market has taken notice of this; after the first taste collectors have come back thirsty for more.
For Hans-Josef 2016 is a superb vintage; classically structured, threaded with a nervy, sinewy acidity that keeps them feeling fresh and buoyant. The ripeness levels were lower overall than the 2015ers; thus we have no Auslesen whatsoever. What we do have are angelic, beautifully and classically proportioned dry wines and one of the most comprehensive and compelling collections of Kabinetts and Spätlesen we’ve ever had, all of them just delicately balanced just beyond dry. Hans-Josef’s Spätlesen taste drier than many winemakers’ dry wines… especially in 2016 with its fine acids.
2016 is also Becker’s smallest harvest ever, since his career began in 1971. The average yields for the estate were about 18 hectoliters per hectare. We will have access to about half as much as with 2015, so please don’t dawdle.
These will disappear.
2016 is also one of those misunderstood vintages and my best guess is that 2016 will have something of the Renaissance we’ve seen with 2008.
After all, great vintages have long shadows; the darkness nearly always overwhelms whatever comes next, regardless of quality. It’s a lesson we learn over and over and over again. (It’s also a lesson we ignore over and over and over again… until years later when we taste the “shadow-vintage” and declare, shocked, “damn that’s goooooood.”)
I still remember the great revelation of the first Rieslingfeier in 2013. Collectors brought tons of 2008ers and 2007ers. It was the first opportunity in a long time to really taste the two vintages back-to-back: David and Goliath if ever there was.
And as per the Bible, David came away the victor. The 2008ers, with their brisk energy, profound minerality and ruthless structures, were the shock of the night. Honestly, you can almost mark that dinner as the turn-around on 2008, which is now regarded by most Germano-dorks as one of the greats.
Yes, the 2015ers will prove to be legends, in the long run. However, for the next 20 years the 2016ers are going to dance all over them. They are more classically proportioned, there is more inherent energy and finesse. They are just ****ing delicious. We probably don’t need to be more technical than that.
To order the wines, email info@vomboden.com and we will connect you with a retailer where you can purchase.
2016 Oberberg Müller-Thurgau Kabinett Trocken $27
Straight and clear, crystalline. The fact that this is Rheingau M-T is sort of unbelievable.
Simple to be sure, but the wine is precise and driving and refreshing and **** if we
are ever going to say no to a single-vineyard Müller-Thurgau Kabinett Trocken. #priorities
2016 Walkenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken $30
A perfumed nose, exuberant and ripe and luscious feeling. This contrasts, somewhat,
with the rigor, energy and precision of the palate. This is cutting and fresh. Classic Kabi
Trocken. Under 3 grams RS, just under 12% alcohol with an acidity of 7.6 for you numbers
people.
2016 Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken $39
The nose here is more herbal, darker and deeper with notes of anise and dried herbs.
Structured similarly to the Kabi Trocken, the Spätlese Trocken is more austere, more
penetrating – saline notes, rocks, citrus fruit and dried grasses.
2016 Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben $44
The “alte Reben” is always sourced from vines 55 years and older; this is a SERIOUS
step up in terms of concentration and power. This is the finest dry wine of the 2016 Becker
collection and screams vivid, ultra-greens: spearmint, green apple skins and citrus.
Phenolic, explosive and beautiful. John will probably buy a good portion of this for his
twins’ cellar so good luck.
2016 Oberberg Riesling Kabinett Halb-Trocken $30
Like the Kabi Trocken, the Oberberg flaunts a ripe and luscious nose, darker fruited
with red currant and berries. The palate is suave and sexy, airy and buoyant. This has about
15 grams RS, which is basically dry, especially with an acid of about 7. Under 11% alcohol.
2016 Oberberg Riesling Spätlese Halb-Trocken $39
Similar to the Oberberg Kabinett Halb-Trocken (which is, after all, it’s little brother),
here the ripe dark notes are simply ratcheted up. The wine is more textural, rounder
and deeper. 18.6 grams RS, an acid of about 8 and just over 11% alcohol. Glug glug.
2016 Berg Bildstock Riesling Kabinett $30
Super, old-school Kabinett; citrus, high-toned lemon and grapefruit on the nose.
As with the others, terrific tension between the generosity of the nose and the whiplash acids
of the palate. A whole 26 grams RS, acids closing in on 8 grams and an alcohol of 10.7%.
Here we go.